Petrina的部落格

上週末嚐試兩回50%全麥核桃蔓越莓麵包  發現等比例卡美里亞高筋加第三代全麥粉 吸水量高得嚇人

剛開始膽小如鼠的我 水量從70% 一路到74% 我就手軟了 唯恐一失手成千古恨軟癱癱麵糊 (有這樣的經歷 是從秋天的南瓜土司學到慘痛教訓)

調整後的幾次70%-72% 麵團變得有點硬 (不像過去同廠出品的彩虹高筋 採用76%的水份 麵團竟然有著果凍般的手感 而不必用手粉 以為會黏手 卻完全不黏) 所以出爐的麵包口感較為扎實 我並不十分滿意

過去一直很嚮往麵包大師Bernard Clayton "New Complete Book of Breads, Soups and Stews "一書中 在一篇標題為 Thrill of Discovery 中 對發酵中麵團的質感 (我偏愛用手感兩字) 有段非常生動的描述:

.....I pinched off a small piece of dough from a batch resting in a large bowl and discovered to my surprise that it was softer than anything to which i was accustomed. I could force it to stick to my fingers but handled gingerly it would not. It was just one step beyond the sticky stage, a point at which I would have been inclined to firm it up with more flour. But not M. Monfort. He sprinkled flour liberally over the work surface, but this didn't affect the consistency of the dough.

對於這樣的境界 最近才從幾回苦心孤詣的嘗試中徹底感受到了 僅一句白話文:

有點黏 結果卻完全不黏的境界

一般人對水份這角色的認知 通常就是不要把麵團弄得溼黏難以操作 但又要追求口感 往往在幾個小小百分點上去拿捏和掙扎 戒慎恐懼的心情在所難免 但有時還是功虧一匱

幾回幾乎要功敗垂成的經驗告訴我 卡美里亞啊 就放膽加個80%吧 她會乖巧地讓你好整以暇地完成美味可口的麵包 同時 又讓你親身感受到果凍般潤彈的操作樂趣